Thursday, February 9, 2012

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1985 

For me everything started back in June 1985 when I was 9 years. Six families from Villiersdorp decided to explore Botswana, 7 vehicles in total. My mom, dad and youngest brother were in a 1979 Isuzu KB 1,9-litre diesel bakkie and my uncle, sister and I were travelling in a 1984 Isuzu KB 2,2-litre diesel bakkie and trailer. The other vehicles included two Toyota Land Cruiser pick-ups, two Jeep Wagoneers and a Land Rover.

Looking back today, I can not believe we made it all the way through Mabuasehube, Moremi and Savuti without getting stuck once. This with a 1,9-litre diesel producing around 40 kW, 14" wheels and 190 mm of ground clearance! In 1990 the 2,2-litre diesel also took us (3 adults, 3 children and all our luggage tied onto the roof) safely through Khaudum (north-eastern Namibia and known for thick sand tracks). Nowadays these places are all visited in 4-litre+ petrols and turbo diesels with 16"+ wheels, diff locks, traction control and a 2 ton trailer in tow.

(Some of the earlier pictures and video's were taken from old VHS cassettes, hence the bad quality)

(Move the cursor over pictures for description) 


 Botswana 1985  -Me on that first trip Botswana1985
 Botswana 1985  -Isuzu KB 2.2-litre  Botswana 1985 - The complete group of 7 vehicles

After several further trips to Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe in the bakkies, I arrived back home from school one day in 1992 to find a brand new Volkswagen Kombi in the driveway. But even I could see this was no ordinary Kombi, it was a Syncro. That winter holiday we went to Namibia and went fishing at Henties Bay.

1994 

Thereafter another Botswana trip followed and in 1994 we visited the Kaokoland in the Syncro and an Isuzu 2.5-litre diesel bakkie and a trailer. The Syncro was still stock standard, except for the 15" wheels fitted.  We did not do our homework properly and never realised that it is not a good idea to travel Van Zyl's pass west to east. Not only is the climb difficult, but you also damage the road and make it difficult for others.

However, we arrived at the foothills and tried the first climb with the Isuzu and trailer. We didn't get very far, although the bakkie had a rear diff lock, it was too steep and uneven and got to a halt with loads of wheel spin. We reversed all the way back, and tried again, but this time leaving the trailer behind.  We managed to get to the first section where the road levelled out and unloaded all the luggage from the bakkie.  In the mean time the Syncro made its way up, without a problem, to where we were waiting.  The bakkie then turned around to go and fetch the trailer which we unloaded into the back of the bakkie and onto the roof rack.  Up we went again, towing the empty trailer, and managed to get to where the Syncro and unloaded luggage were waiting.  All the luggage was again loaded the way it originally was in the bakkie and trailer and off we went. There were more places where the bakkie could not manage, and we had to tow it with the Syncro.

On that same trip, my brother (then 10 years old) fell very sick. At Epupa falls, my dad decided to take the bakkie and get him to the nearest doctor as soon as possible. We slowly followed in the Syncro, no need for us to miss the scenery along the Kunene on the way to Ruacana and we would meet up with them onces back in civilisation. Then we noticed some fresh oil on the road and knowing that not a lot of vehicles travelled this way, we feared for the worst. I got out to look at the oil on the road, it was still warm and definitely not engine oil, but either that of the gearbox or diff. It was not much further when we got to the bakkie, parked next to the road.

Somewhere along the way, probably on Van Zyl's pass, a rock must have hit the rear diff drain plug in such a way that over time it worked its way out of the diff, draining all the oil. By the time my dad heard the humming sound, it was almost too late and the diff was already filled with sand and dust. There was no way the diff would last under load. We removed the driving shaft to the diff, cut a wooden plug from a branch and filled the diff with petrol. We drove up and down for a couple of times and flushed all the dust and dirt with the petrol. After a couple of flushes we filled the diff with oil and off we went, front wheel drive. This time the trailer was behind the Syncro.

It worked well for most of the way, but the road along the Kunene had some steep uneven climbs and the bakkie with no front diff lock was basically a single front wheel drive. We even tried to reverse up some of the climbs, but to no avail. So, out came the tow rope again and the Syncro had to do its duties. We didn't even unhook the trailer, the tow rope was tied to the Syncro and placed underneath the trailer. The towing went on until late at night and we made a bush camp close to Rucana. The next day we drove to Oshakati where a doctor diagnosed him with Hepatitis. Although he was already over the worst, the doctor suggested that we visit the hospital at Tsumeb for a final check. The next year, 1995, we did the same basic trip but this time from east to west and going down Van Zyl's pass.

 Kaokoland 1994 - going up van Zyl's pass  Kaokoland 1994 - working on the diff
 Kaokoland 1994 - going up van Zyl's pass  Kaokoland 1995 - going down van Zyl's pass

1998 

I studied mechanical engineering from 1995 until 1998. With pictures and video material at hand, it was not difficult to convince two of my best student buddies to go on such an adventure. It would be my first trip "alone" without my parents and we couldn't wait. Shortly after graduation day we loaded our stuff into my dad's Syncro and off we went. We had no detailed planning and the detailed route description was a single word: "Botswana". All three of us were going to continue with postgraduate studies so time was on our side and we only had to be back by the end of January. The only limiting factor being student finances of course.

We were heading for Maun via Francistown and Nata but when we stopped for fuel at Palapaye, I suddenly remembered about our past trips through the Makgadikgadi pans. Immediately the plan was changed and we headed for Maun via Orapa, the salt pans, Gweta and the Nxai national park. However, I never realised what the pans look like in the summer - the rainy season. I grew up in the Cape and only travelled up north during the dry winter (June/July) school holidays.  So when we reached the edge of the pan we were surprised to find it filled with water, ankle deep.

We were happy-go-lucky and without hesitating we drove into the slippery pan. We made it all the way through the pans without getting stuck and then found ourselves in a maze of roads on the other side. We had no GPS, nor any map of the region. From childhood memory I could recall that we drove from Orapa through the pans to Gweta and that was the amount of detail we had. How difficult could it be? We stopped at a kraal and luckily there was someone who could speak English. He told us to simply follow the main road. So off we went, following the sandy jeep track so-called "main road".

Soon we reached a split in the road, left or right? Which one is the main road? We followed the one which seemed to have the latest tracks just to find another split in the road a couple of kilometers further. Left, right? In our defence, I have to mention that it was an overcast day and keeping direction was difficult. About 30 minutes later we entered another kraal, hopefully they could tell us the way to Gweta. We also noticed a fresh set of 4x4 prints in the sand. Surely the guy in the 4x4 would be able to explain to us the way out of here. But then we realised that it was the print of a Firestone ATX - our tracks from 30 minutes earlier. We didn't bother to ask for directions again, and somehow managed to find Gweta.

Our travels took us to Maun, Savuti, Kasane, Vic-Falls, Binga at the Kariba dam, Ngepi in the Caprivi, Etosha, Swakopmund and safely back home. On the whole trip we got stuck once in the dunes just outside Swakopmund. We arrived at Swakopmund just before New Year's Day and could not find a single available camping spot. We tried every place in and around Swakopmund and Walvisbay, but with no luck and it was getting late. We then bought Kentucky take-away and drove into the desert and set camp between the dunes about 5 km from Swakopmund. On our way there we had some fun with the Syncro on the dunes and in the process managed to get it stuck. Luckily it was equipped with a winch and we had to bury the spare wheel in the sand for anchorage. That was one of the best nights of camping ever. We climbed one of the dunes behind our camp and could see Swakopmund's lights in the distance.

 Botswana 1998 - Savuti Lion  Botswana 1998 - Tyre anchor
 Botswana 1998 - Makgadikgadi Pans  Botswana 1998 - Makgadikgadi Pans
 

Botswana and Namibia trips also followed in 2001, 2002 and 2003 in my dad's Syncro. In 2001 we went to the Kaokoland only in the Syncro, in 2002 we went to Botswana together with a friend in a Kia Sportage. 

2003 

In 2003 we were joined by friends in a 1980's Toyota Hilux with a Ford V6 engine.  We left Stellenbosch and when we reached Springbok the V6 started to misfire and we had to set the timing. In Khaudum, it started to overheat in the thick sand. Luckily we had an extra electric radiator fan with us. The fan was quickly mounted on the bakkie's bullbar, in front of the radiator and connected directly to the battery. This worked like a charm and got us out of Khaudum.

Then disaster struck in the middle of the Makgadikgadi pans. My friend wanted to change gears, but the clutch was gone! The slave cylinder lost all of its inside parts, just the outer shell was still in place. The circlip or something keeping it all in place must have rusted away. We could not find any of the missing parts and had no other choice but to continue without a clutch. We push started it and my friend managed to change gears by manipulating the engine revolutions. It was Sunday and we could not find a place where we could get a replacement slave cylinder. Travelling through Gaborone proved difficult without a clutch. Getting it out of gear to stop at a traffic light is not too difficult, but to get going again is the problem. All of the Syncro passengers had to jump out of the vehicle, push the bakkie until it reached a speed where it would engage a gear (the engine was kept running) and then jump back into the Syncro. This was not practical, but luckily the Syncro's bulbar was the perfect height and we started to push the bakkie with the Syncro. In the end it posed almost no problem and we drove all the way back to Stellenbosch without a clutch.

 

 Botswana 2003 - Sekereti Campsite in Khaudum Botswana 2003 - Me bungee jumping at Vic-Falls
 Botswana 2003 - Looking for the slave cylinder  Botswana 2003 - Finding some shade at Mopipi

2006 

In 2005, after 9 years of full time study and one year of doing research and development in Johannesburg I returned to Stellenbosch University to become a fulltime permanent lecturer and earn a steady income. I immediately started looking for a suitable 4x4 to buy. I looked at all kinds of vehicles, bakkies, Pajero's you name it. But when Gordon Craig advertised a Syncro on the Syncro Forum, I new this would be it. A couple of weeks later I was the proud owner of a blue 1992 Syncro. That year I had to visit the University of Stuttgart, Germany, and could not take winter holidays. But in 2006 I made up for it by going to Botswana and Namibia twice, in June and again in December.  By June my brother also had his own Syncro and he joined me and my (our) dad to complete the trio of Syncro's.  In December I was joined by a friend in his Toyota Hilux 2.7.

 

 Botswana June 2006 - Savuti lion Botswana June 2006 - The three Syncro's on the Makgadikgadi Pans
 Botswana December 2006 - Sunset in Central Kalahari Game Reserve  Botswana December 2006 - Moremi leopard

2009 

A similar trip followed in 2007 and in 2009 I decided to do it on my motorbike. As they say, four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul. After driving street/superbikes (the last one a Suzuki GSXR-1000 K6) for some years, I replaced the Suzuki with a BMW R1200 GS Adventure (2007 model). I was joined by two Syncro's (my dad and brother) and we travelled through Namibia and Botswana.  

 Grootfontein Namibia - July 2009
Mahango Game Park Namibia - July 2009
 
Chobe Botswana - July 2009
 Close to Ngami Lake Botswana - July 2009

 

Since I bought the Syncro in 2005, I only had one breakdown.  In 2007 when we visited the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (CKGR) in Botswana. Just before the trip, one of the Syncro's rear CV joints started to make the dreaded click-click sound. I did not know the history of the CV joints so decided to replace all 4 rear CV's with ones I bought from Midas. At Rakops we turned from the main road onto a sand track and I could feel that something was wrong.

The Syncro struggled in the deep sand and I stopped to deflate the tyres. Pulling away, I looked out the window and saw the front wheel spinning, so surely nothing was wrong with the viscous coupling. We continued for roughly 30 km to reach the campsite where I almost got stuck. I asked one of my passengers to get out and to look if at least one of the rear wheels was spinning. Negative. One of the rear CV joints had popped out.  The end of the shaft with the inner part of the CV was still hanging loose in the CV boot. All the balls were also still inside the boot and I could not see any real damage to the inner, outer or balls. Luckily I had placed one of the old CV joints under the rear seat and could fit it. I was literally greased to the elbows and with no running water and limited supply it was a struggle to get clean. At Midas in Maun I could get another new CV joint just for in case one of the others would fail.

 Fitting a CV joint in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve - December 2007 One mechanic, five observers...

View more Pictures and Video Clips:

1985  Jun - Botswana

   Video Clip

 
 1994 Jun - Kaokoland    Video Clip     
 1995 Jun - Kaokoland    Video Clip    
 1998 Dec - Botswana & Namibia    Video Clip   
 2003 Dec - Botswana & Namibia    Pictures   
 2006 Jun - Botswana & Namibia    Pictures & Video Clip   
 2006 Dec - Botswana & Namibia    Pictures   
 2007 Dec - Botswana & Namibia    Pictures  
 2009 Jul - Botswana & Namibia    Pictures & Video Clip   
     

Trip Summary:
 No Year Month Countries Description   

 1

 1985  June/July Botswana     

 2

 1987 June/July  Zimbabwe  Kariba & Mana Pools  

 3

 1990 June/July  Namibia  Etosha & Khaudum   

 4

 1992 June/July  Namibia  Henties Bay  
 5  1993 June/July  Botswana  Mabuasehube  
 6  1994 June/July  Namibia  Kaokoland   
 7  1995 June/July  Namibia  Kaokoland   
 8  1996 June/July  Zimbabwe  Kariba & Vic Falls   
 9

 1998 December  Botswana,
Zimbabwe
Namibia 
Moremi, Savuti,
Kariba dam,
Etosha, Swakopmund 
 
 10  2001 December  Namibia  Kaokoland   
 11
 2002 December  Botswana  Makgadikgadi, Moremi, Savitu,
Chobe 
 
 12
 2003 December  Botswana
Namibia

Chobe, Savuti, Makgadikgadi 
Sosusvlei, Naukluft, Khaudum

 13
 2006 June/July  Botswana
Namibia 
Makgadikgadi, Savuti, Nogatsaa,
Mamili
 
 14
 2006 December  Botswana
Namibia 
Moremi, Savuti,
Nambwa
 15
 2007 December  Botswana
Namibia 
Mankwe, Moremi, Savuti, Chobe,
Nambwa, Ngepi 
 16  2009 June/July  Botswana
Namibia

Chobe, Nogatsaa,
Caprivi, Nambwa, Bum Hill 

   

 

©2009